The above mentioned well tailored suit could be a Sharp Italian cut Suit or a Roomy American Suit.
But if the Man is an Indian, It has to be a bespoke Jodhpuri Suit…
A Jodhpuri Suit is a formal evening suit originated in the Jodhpur State of India and was popularized during the British Rule. Also known as Bandhgala, it is a western style suit product, with a coat and a trouser, at times accompanied by a vest. The suit brings together the western cut and the Indian hand-embroidery.
The key to a best looking Jodhpuri suit is balance between the fabric and carefully chosen embroidery to go with it. Pattern of embroidery starts from collar and neckline of designer suit and spreads to the shoulder of coat. Various kinds of Indian Embroideries are used to highlight the lines of the suit like Aari work, Zari work and Zardosi work. The jacket of the suit generally comes with slashed pockets to maintain the streamlines look of the jacket
Though the whole Jodhpuri Suit is a statement in itself, the jacket of the suit is worn by itself to make it more current and modern. A good Jodhpuri jacket fits like a glove from the neck down to the waist. The garment consists of a short jacket with front-button closing, high collar and ends at the hips, like a suit or a tuxedo.
Conventionally made of Silk or any suiting material, innovations in fashion have led way to reinvention of The Jodhpuri Suit in many ways. The designers today in India use fabrics ranging from Wool blends, Linens to Velvet. And the cut of the suits range from relaxed to extremely sharp European fits. The color game of the suit has also gradually shifted from dark tones to bright shades and the plain fabrics are making way to fun prints. Normally, the trousers match that of the coat but there is a trend right now to wear contrasting trousers to match the coat color.
In all the variations of the jacket, some have gained more popularity than others. The “Nehru” Jacket is a longish version of a Jodhpuri suit worn by the first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru.
But how, when and where do we wear this suit?
Let’s look at some styling options for this timeless classic…
- Pair a slightly longer version of the Jodhpuri Jacket with Chudidar pants, add some elegant pearls & rings and transform yourself into the enviable groom.
- Pick a well tailored Jodhpuri Suit in Black, Navy or Brown to a business meeting and make a lasting impression on the crowd.
- Pair the Jodhpuri Jacket with denims and give it a casual twist.
- The suits are no longer reserved for businessman. Pick a simple Jodhpuri Jacket in a fun color to be the best man in your buddy’s wedding.
- Leave a few buttons of the jacket open, pair it will linen trousers and wear it to work.
- Embroidery is part of our heritage but avoid gaudy embroideries to make the jacket more versatile for both formal and casual occasions.
- Add a pocket square in a bright color and fun print to a simple Jodhpuri Jacket to add some pizzazz.
- Take a cue from the likes of Jodhpur Royal Polo team and team the Jodhpuri Jacket with Jodhpur pants or Breeches to make a royal style statement.
- Add finer details to your jacket like customized buttons, cuff links etc and look unique in the sea of commons.
Over the years, Indian designers like Raghuvendra Rathore, Rajesh Pratap Singh and Rohit Bal have championed the cause of Jodhpuri Silhouettes. According to these designers, the Jodhpuri Suit is India’s iconic contribution to the world of fashion. If Raghuvendra Rathore is refining the cut and finish in quest of a bespoke Jodhpuri Jacket, Rajesh Pratap Singh has been instrumental in bringing the finesse and tailoring of this jacket into women’s wear.
Whatever shape or version it might, there is no denying that this classic garment is here to stay in our fashion and cultural landscape for years to come.